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Tutorial: Faux layer long sleeves

It's a Tutorial Thursday with Twisted Needle Textiles!  Can you say that five times fast? Haha I tried and stumbled after number 3. 

Today I'll be sharing a tutorial on how to add faux layer long sleeves to your project.  You can use this tutorial for any pattern that includes short and long sleeves on the pattern piece.

The pattern I used has a 1" hem allowance so that is why my measurements refer to 1".  If your pattern has a different hem allowance, you will need to adjust accordingly.

Start by cutting out the short sleeves as usual.  To get your faux layer long sleeve pattern piece, take the original pattern piece and measure up 1" from the short sleeve cut line.  This is the seam allowance for your faux layer.  You can now cut out the long sleeve pieces by cutting along the newly created seam allowance line and then rest of the original pattern piece.

Cut fabric pieces

I used my hot hemmer to measure  a 1" memory hem on the short sleeves.  

Measuring 1 inch hem on short sleeve.

Press the 1" memory hem.

Pressing 1inch hem

Lay your short sleeve pattern piece right side up with the memory hem at the top.

Place your faux layer on top of the short sleeve with RIGHT sides together.  

Faux layer placed over short sleeve

The raw unhemmed end of the short sleeve and the upper portion of the faux layer should be matched up.  This is where you will stitch the two pieces together.

Stitch the two pieces together using a stretch stitch or serger. 

Lay your new sleeve piece so the short sleeve is on top.  Pictured below, you can see the memory hem that we pressed in an early step.

Fold the short sleeve portion up along the memory hem line.  The right sides of your fabric should be facing up.  

If necessary, you can repress the hem before adding your preferred hemming stitches. 

Folded along memory hem

Using a twin needle, coverstitch, or other stretch stitch, hem your sleeve at the faux layer.

Hemmed faux layer

Repeat for the other sleeve.

Now you can continue sewing the shirt according to the pattern instructions.

Finished faus layer sleeve

ALL DONE!

Fabric used for this tutorial is from the current Mini Me's pre-order.